Kjellstromdalen, Svalbard

We set up camp that night on the north bank of Kjellstromdalen. Usually we'd stop at about 18:00 and start by digging out a platform for the tents. We'd then put the tents up (we were carrying three- the YEs shared three to a tent and Zoe and I shared), anchoring them down with our skis and ice axes. Next we'd put our bear flares up around the tents (more on these later), dig a loo and fill the porch of the tent with blocks of snow for cooking. If there was time and it was warm enough we'd lay our sleeping bags and mats outside to try to keep them as dry and fresh(!) as possible. Because of the temperature difference between the inside of the tent and the outside we suffered from large amounts of condensation building up inside the tents. This would then make everything damp so it was important to take every opportunity to dry things off.

At 20:00 every evening we had sit. rep. (situation report). We had an HF radio that we set up with a 25m antenna facing the direction of base camp. At 20:00 Jackie would come on the radio and ask for each of the fires sit reps in turn. If the line was good she would then open the net for chat. As our only opportunity to hear from the other fires, sit rep became one of the favourite parts of the day, and "nothing heard, out to you" one of the tag lines of the expedition. This picture shows us all ready for sit rep, with the radio antenna in the foreground. Say again, over.

Kjellstromdalen, Svalbard

Lundstromdalen, Svalbard

The next day we were spoilt again with perfect weather as we made our way down Lundstromdalen and into 'Polar Bear Ally', Kjellstromdalen. Ade had told us that, at this time of year, as the sea ice breaks up, the polar bears float around the top of Svalbard on the ice then hop off where Kjellstromdalen reaches the sea and walk back along the valley to the west coast. So I was totally geared up (and not at all scared) to see a polar bear. This could explain the funny dream I had that night.... sorry Zoe.

Lundstromdalen, Svalbard

From the col we descended steeply down into the beautiful Lundstromdalen. It was a real bluebird day and after three days of uphill pulking the new terrain was very welcome. As the valley flattened these ice bulges became regular features.

Adventelva, Svalbard

Oh. My. Goodness. Polar bear tracks are Huge. Thanks to Edd for the photo.

Adventelva, Svalbard

This storm was thankfully short lived and about 36 hours after it started we were able to set off again. We continued pulking up Adventdalen and then into Adventelva (dalen is Norwegian for valley and elva is river). As we gained height, the valley became narrower and we camped one night in a beautifully white gully with steep banks and sparkling cornices. The next morning we continued east, now on steeper ground as we headed up to our high point- a col between Adventelva and Lundstromdalen. As we were pulking we noticed tracks up ahead. Getting closer we realised they were rather big. Then very big. Then.... Thanks to Flora for the photo.

Adventdalen, Svalbard

The view outside with visability of not more than a few meters, and our tent with our pulks parked up outside. The tents are secured with snow valances, skis and ice axes. It took a lot of digging to get them out the next day. Thanks to Flora for the picture.

Adventdalen, Svalbard

We finally made the brave decision to leave the tent to, amongst other things, check our YEs hadn't blown away. I opened the inner door (we had Terra Nova Hyperspaces) only to find that the whole porch, including our Sorels (arctic boots) had filled with snow.... it was a steep learning curve! Thanks to Flora for the photo.

Adventdalen, Svalbard

Bearly minutes after gaining the far bank of the Impassable gulley the weather closed in. The wind picked up, the cloud came down and it started snowing. Our first Arctic storm. We managed to get our camp up with minutes to spare. The next 24hours were spent cowering in our tents, wondering if our pulks had blown away and if we'd ever be able to get home again. This isn't the best picture but Zoe and me were in hysterics at the prospect of popping outside for a quick pee complete with face mask, goggles and Mauser K98 (loaded with four rounds at all times and taken everywhere we went, as is the law in Svalbard).

Adventdalen, Svalbard

James mustering up the strength to climb up the far bank.

Adventdalen, Svalbard

Within our first day we encountered our first obstacle- a seemingly impassable gully of infinite depth and infinite width. After lowering our pulks down the west bank we managed to find an area on the far side with a slightly shallower gradient that we were able to haul our pulks up.

Adventdalen, Svalbard

BSES has a tradition of splitting their expeditions into fires (a group of people that are able to comfortably sit around a fire). For this expedition each fire was 6 or 7 YEs (young explorers) and two leaders. Every fire was named after a Svalbard native- Isbjorn (polar bear), Polar Rev (arctic fox) and Rein (reindeer). For phase one of the expedition Zoe and I led Polar Rev, consisting of Flora, Steph, James, Fraser, Edd and Matt. Ignoring the fact that none of us really had any idea what we were doing Polar Rev decided to set out from base camp immediately to make a 10 day bid for the east coast. With brave hearts, wills of steel, 50 tonnes of hot cereal start and plenty of strength and honour we set out into Adventdalen.

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Sun-not-quite-setting over the sea-ice. This was taken at 11:30pm shortly before we headed out into the field for the next two months. This was the lowest we saw the sun, for most of the expedition it remained high in the sky, circling around us.

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Loaded pulks and skis waiting for action outside the container.

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Our flight brought us into Longyearbyen at 1am on Friday 23rd April. The following day was spent on the outskirts of the town at Ade and Jackie's (expedition chief leader and base camp manager) container. Pulks were issued, skis were fitted, bags were packed and re-packed, and, when we had the chance, Svalbard was marvelled at. This was our first view of the sea-ice which, at this stage, reached almost all the way into the mouth of Adventdalen.

On board the Svalbard Express, Denmark

When planning a two month expedition to the Arctic there are many logistical obstacles that one must overcome (does my down jacket match my hat? Is a 500ml pee bottle big enough? Will I get spots if I eat two mars bars a day? etc. etc.). Throughout the planning process I don't think any one of our 29 strong team had considered volcanic eruption as a potential obstacle. Not even in a footnote. And yet, on 20th April we found ourselves at the Royal Geographical Society in London piling onto a bus (the Svalbard Express) because our flights had been cancelled three days earlier and Eyjafjallajokull was still belching. We bussed down to Dover, ferried to Calais, bussed overnight through France and Belguim, woke up in Germany and carried on bussing (you gotta love that bus). We bussed until we got to Denmark. From Denmark we ferried (picture) to Sweden. Then bussed to Gothenburg where we spent the night with Batman. The following morning and back on the Svalbard Express, straight on to Oslo airport. Most flights were still cancelled and the backlog was huge but, somehow, we were able to get on a flight to Tromso that afternoon. After another few hours of begging at Tromso airport we found ourselves, finally, and only 6 days late, on a late-night flight to Longyearbyen. Next stop Svalbard. Ding ding!