Saturday, August 23, 2008
Friday, August 22, 2008
We descended from the summit down into Italy and to the Marco e Rosa hut where, feeling like conquering heros, we spent the afternoon and evening eating, drinking and not-quite-believing! The next morning we had to traverse the Bellavista Terraces and then descend onto the Pers Glacier and so to the Diavolezza hut where we got the cable car back down to the valley. This picture is taken from the Bellavista Terraces looking back at the Marco e Rosa hut.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 11:46 am
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
From the Tschierva hut there is a perfect view of the Biancograt (white ridge). I've marked our route in black. The top of the Biancograt does not mark the summit of Piz Bernina however. From here the route veers slightly east for a further 100m(?) to the summit.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 7:08 am
The fine weather persisted so we spent one night back at camp sorting ourselves out then headed out to the Tschierva hut for our attempt on Piz Bernina. Rather than spend several hours walking into the hut we chose to take advantage of a horse and cart travelling up Val Roseg. Where's my milk?
Posted by Rosey Grant at 6:57 am
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
The summit ridge of Piz Badile (Badile means spade or shovel) forms the boarder between Switzerland and Italy. This picture shows the north-east face of the mountain with the north ridge to the right. The north ridge offers 19 pitches of smooth granite climbing (it's hard to get the scale from this picture but this ridge is 3000 feet). We didn't take any pictures on the actual route but took plenty from the Sasc Fura hut the next morning.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 6:36 am
Saturday, August 16, 2008
As a special pre-climbing-the-Badile dinner we bought sausages and had bangers and mash, camping style. Afterwards we settled down to enjoy a tunnocks bar and a quiet game of chess. I looked up from a particularly cunning move (...?!) only to find that someone else was also enjoying my tunnocks bar. This is one of my favourite photos of the trip. I've never seen a grasshopper looking so happy.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 9:10 am
Towards the end of our first week we got the weather window we needed to tackle Objective Number Two: the north ridge of the Badile (the fin of rock at the very right of the picture). However the rainy days we had sat through in the valley had meant substantial snow fall up high. From Bondo we could see our route, and knew that in this state we would have to wait at least another day for the snow to melt...
Posted by Rosey Grant at 8:57 am
Thursday, August 14, 2008
After a few wet weather days spent playing cards and drinking tea in Chiavenna we got another chance to head up to the Albigna. This time we climbed a couple of sport routes on the other side of the dam directly below the Albigna hut. This is taken from the Albigna dam.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 8:46 am
Monday, August 11, 2008
The forecast for the first few days of our trip wasn't great but there was supposed to be a few hours of sunshine on our first morning so we took advantage of the Albigna cable car and headed up to the Spazzacaldeira. We did a nice sport route to the summit and then thought we'd wonder over to the Fiamma (a 30ft pinnacle of rock)... just for a look. Looking turned to climbing and spurred on by the fact that we might not get another chance to bag objective number one, Matt made a fine ascent to the top of this very precarious pinnacle. Just as I pulled onto the top to join him a flash of lightening and clap of thunder warned us not to push our luck and amazed at what we had achieved we made a hasty retreat back down to the valley. Objective Number One well and truly bagged! Unfortunately we didn't take any pictures that day because it was quite dark, however, John and Toby did the Fiamma several days later and took this fantastic photo of John. Thanks very much to Toby and John for this picture.
Posted by Rosey Grant at 9:53 am
Sunday, August 10, 2008
This summer Matt, John, Toby and me drove to Val Bregaglia for two weeks climbing. Matt and I had a very tight schedule with three main objectives; the Fiamma, the north ridge of the Badile and Piz Bernina via the Biancograt. This is base camp in Vicosoprano at the Mulina campsite (highly recommended, run by two of the most jolly people I have ever met).
Posted by Rosey Grant at 8:36 am