Rothera, Antarctica

One of the projects this summer was to develop a GPS logger that could be dropped out of a plane onto a glacier, the idea being that by watching how the co-ordinates change we can see how the glacier shifts. To assist in the development of the instrument, several dry runs were conducted over Rothera. Two Twin Otters flew in tandom, one to drop the logger, the other to film the decent. On Christmas Eve the end of one of these dry runs coincided with the return of the Dash 7. It is not often that all three planes are in air over Rothera at the same time so Alan (head pilot) made the decision to take full advantage and conduct a fabulous fly by over base.

Flying north to Rothera, Antarctica

Al flying just ahead of us, low over the sea a few kilometers south of Rothera.

Flying north to Rothera, Antarctica

As we flew north over George VI Sound and then out over Margeurite Bay, where we could see ice bergs frozen into the sea ice.

Flying north to Rothera, Antarctica

Flying north to Rothera, Antarctica

En route to Rothera, Antarctica

Towards the end of December Tamsin, Doug-the-pilot and I went out on one more intrepid science related adventure. We flew my furtherst south yet, onto the Ronne ice shelf and to the practically named "Site 8" weather station. Site 8, like Butler Island, is vast and white in all directions. We had been working there for several hours when three pure white snow petrals flew down and circled around us. It was incredible to see them out in the middle of Antarctic nothingness. They look so delicate but they must be incredibly hardy to survive out there.

By the time we had finished work at Site 8 it was too late to make it back to Rothera so we flew north and stopped the night at Fossil Bluff, where despite the late hour, we were welcomed into Bluebell cottage with cold beers, a beautiful dinner and an incredible sunset over the main land. The next morning we radioed into Rothera to get a weather report. We were informed that a Dash 7 was flying to Rothera, due in in several hours time. Because the Dash don't have skis they always take priority over every other plane, as they can only land on the Rothera runway. Once the Dash has called PNR (point of no return), the runway is out of bounds to any other aircraft. Consequently, we had no other choice but to spend the morning lazing in the sunshine at Fossil Bluff. While we waited we were joined by a second Twin Otter. As soon as the Dash touched down at Rothera, we were on our way, flying home in tandam, with Al and Gav.

Rothera, Antarctica

Scott on the last run down from Stork bowl.

Rothera, Antarctica

Sunday afternoon, ski touring in Stork bowl. Thanks to Scott for the photo.

Rothera, Antarctica

Sarah and me on board the JCR, just before she set sail back north. Thanks to Tom for the photo.

Rothera, Antarctica

When I got back to Rothera, the JCR complete with food, drink, building and maintenance materials, science equipment, scientists and most importantly my friend Sarah, had arrived at the wharf. For three days the whole base was one massive human chain unloading the ship into Rothera.

Fossil Bluff, Antarctica

Fossil Bluff, Antarctica

There is a coire just behind Bluebell cottage. I think the combination of ice, wind and meltwater result in these incredible formations.

Fossil Bluff, Antarctica

Inside is a tiny fuel burning stove (running off aviation fuel). The walls are lined with shelves, rammed with tins of food, oddities collected from outside and ancient books dating back to the 60’s when the first FIDs stayed here. There is a small water tank into which we drop bricks of snow from outside. Against the back wall are two bunks, painted red. There is a little desk setup with the radio for relaying the met observations. Any spare bits of wall are covered with maps of Antarctica and artwork from all the previous inhabitants. There is a book here called the Silent Sound written by one of the three men who were the first to stay here. It’s been incredible to read it while sitting in the bunk that it was written from.

Fossil Bluff, Antarctica

George.

Fossil Bluff, Antarctica

At the moment I am out at Fossil Bluff where I’ve been for the last week, working as weather-girl-come-petrol-pump-attendant. Fossil Bluff is on the east coast of Alexander Island. To our west are scree mountains partially covered with snow, and interspersed with valleys. To our east is the vast flat white of George VI Sound, also known as the Silent Sound, and then about 40km away are the mountains of mainland Antarctica. Fossil Bluff International airport consists of some flags, some fuel drums and a small, dumpy, red fiberglass hut called an apple hut. About a kilometer to the north is Bluebell Cottage, a beautiful wooden hut, set just up off the sound, complete with wooden veranda and pet skua, George.

Sky Blu, Antarctica

Flying from Sky Blu we saw a faint Brocken spectre in the clouds below us. It wasn't strong enough to come out well in the photos so I've increased the colour saturation.

Fletcher Glacier, Antarctica

The Ellsworths are home to Mount Vincent, the tallest mountain in Antarctica (shown here), so the views from, and as you fly into the field site are pretty special. Once we had unloaded the plane, we got a quick tour of the camp and a cup of tea before returning to Sky Blu. We finally landed at Sky Blu at midnight, by which time it was too late to continue to Fossil Bluff, so we were kindly put up for the night.

Fletcher Glacier, Antarctica

Fog at Fossil Bluff delayed our departure by a couple of hours so by the time we got to Sky Blu (the first time around) it was already late afternoon. We pushed on further south to find Sledge Party Quebec, camped out on Fletcher glacier at the foot of the Ellsworth mountains. Sledge Quebec are a team of glaciologists, who are attempting to drill 130m ice cores in one season. These cores will then be analysed to provide a history of surface temperatures and snow accumulation over the last 200 years. This shows the camp at Sledge Quebec, which is the best equipped camp I have ever seen, complete with showers, microwave, large structured tents and Saturday film nights.

En route to Fletcher Glacier, Antarctica

I’ve already mentioned Fossil Bluff, which is a fuel depot about 225 miles south of Rothera. Beyond that is another depot called Sky Blu, which is about 450 miles south, at a latitude of 75 degrees. Sky Blu has a blue-ice runway which allows not only the Twin Otters to land but also the Dash 7 (larger planes, able to carry greater loads). These two camps enable field parties (known as Sledge Parties) to reach a massive area within north-west Antarctica. Both Fossil Bluff and Sky Blu have to be manned at all times during the summer season to provide constant weather information for the pilots and to provide safety cover for landing, refueling, and taking-off.

I knew I was to be heading out to Fossil Bluff to help man it for a few days so on Sunday morning I had my radio on standby, waiting for the call.

“Andy B, Andy B? This is Clem.”
“Go ahead, Clem.”
“Hi Andy, we’re ready to move the detonators onto the plane now.”
“Thanks Clem, I’ll get everyone ready”.
Goodness, I thought to myself, I wonder what poor people will be flying out on that plane.
“Rosey, Rosey? This is Andy B. Can you get your stuff together and make your way over to the hanger?”. Ah.
It turned out that a field party near Sky Blu needed to blow some things up, and that the plane going there needed a co-pilot, and since I was heading out to Fossil Bluff anyway-- so that Sunday, I got to make the most amazing flights around the Peninsula, flying Rothera-Fossil Bluff-Sky Blu-Sledge Party Quebec-Sky Blu-Fossil Bluff.

Rothera, Antarctica

Skidooing back down to Rothera from the weekly AWS check at the skiway. This is the stillest I have seen the bay yet.